Comme des Garçons, Rick Owens and UnderCover make you feel

Often, the fashion show is not noted, the word of salads that alleged to explain the idea behind a group but it often looks meaningless, it offers a surprise punch. But this is what happened after the Comme Des Garçons showed, when Rei Kawakubo released her usual saying.

“We recently feel that large companies, big culture, global systems, and global structures are not great after all,” as stated. But – there was an addition – “small can be strong”.

For anyone to follow the news every day, it was impossible not to know what Mrs. Kawakobo means. Seeing its width, it was also difficult not to think: Yes! After all, it did not refer to short skirts.

Instead, what happened in its mixture of classic-wool fabrics, cotton fabric, tetaine, jewelry velvet-made of dresses that have been assembled, or at least pin structures, at least of the human scale.

Each strange and amazing piece on itself stood: a fireproof of the material’s maze here, a jacket of Mile-Feille there; A pyramid of charming black and white ruffles, such as the skirts raised for the ball dress, the person’s duties inside, and turned it into a memorial to wear clothes. Each one, like a small pile of memories, was hunting in the process of switching to something else. What will be? who knows.

With them the emotion came. Not necessarily desire, but tenderness. The pure pleasure of seeing creativity is leaving wandering, at a time -like when a sarcastic exercise, controlled by large groups.

The offer was only 20 looks. Their strength does not lie in their shoulders, slogans, or bombing, but their ability to enter under your skin and push soft places. To make you feel, not just think, raise your eyebrows, or yawn. This is rare enough to look a radical experience, but it happened several times this week.

This happened, for example, in Rick Owens, who can tend to build the world to the extreme, but he who curbed himself-and his high shoulders, leaving behind smoke machines in many other seasons, as he said in a preview, “everyone reminded that all my suggestions are real.” He said it was the reaction “Looking around it and seeing this type of the open fashion festival in which we live.”

It is strange to hear Mr. Owens discuss the need to make “reasonable” clothes, as is the case with Mrs. Kawakobo saying “little”. (“I may even put my eyes in my face,” said Mr. Owens laughing.) His streams of suede and skin, with an atmosphere of dried kings, are simply elegant.

Hoodie was also collected from hundreds of strips of some shiny lights, so it looks like feathers, a dressed dress woven from the leather strips that looked old and other world – and can be worn. You can read Mr. Owens’s clothes as aggressive, but also offer a kind of embrace.

However, there may not have been a purely move like the secret offer of John Takahashi. He was created to celebrate the thirty -fifth anniversary of the brand, it was apparently reconsideration of what Mr. Takahashi called his favorite collection, from the fall of 2004, which was inspired by Patti Smith and the work of the French actress “Al Fahim” Ann Foupond (yes, it was difficult to know this from this mix of references).

It doesn’t matter; In fact, examples of all ages wandering without a goal around the extent of the show appeared in what appeared to be random patterns. Just as the buttons on the blouses and hero blouses wandered out of the center, wandering in a forest of things that are found decorating insects: souvenirs and shiny ornaments, such as the contents that were rescued from the treasure box, which hang like magic.

A black coat in Tinsel ONYX has been completed and made to be mixed. The spraysy concert dresses were sliding the clothes of Teddy Bear in its skirts, as if it were the Easter Island version of the Fa Chicars games. Everything was a kind of sponge, in a good way; Complex and completely formal at the same time.

In the end, a model came out in an ivory cotton suit, soft Krish from long fabric, reducing its arms. They turned into wings when she put her hands in her pockets. And when she gave a little ignorance, as if she was saying, “What is the big deal?” Or “Do you believe this happens?” The movement of its dorsal muscles made its wings a flap. Go back and back, back and forth, as if it was prepared to hit.

In that a small gesture, full stories lie.