Designer for the first time in Tom Ford and Jarf Van Nutin

Pay attention to all the martinian lounges with a affectionate side who found themselves late to wander, lost in a forest of athleisure and Streetwear: You are about to find it. On Wednesday night in Paris, against the background of Gray Silk and Vodka, Haider Ackermann appeared for the first time as a creative director of Tom Ford and served a recipe for the return of formalities. Less dry stirring, does not vibrate.

The guests observed around a lining room at a low banquet, with identical walls-although they are not a kind of disco passing in the 1970s that described Mr. Ford’s offers once, but reflects with their brilliance a little; Stressive mirrors. Black Nawadel, made of heavy silver trays with low crystal ball glasses. There was Mr. Ford, who sold his company in 2022, wearing all lions and plans between Jared Lito and Anna Winner, waiting to know if his second successor, who was chosen, would be the right person bearing his name. (The first, his deputy for a long time, Peter Hawkinz, lasted for a year only; no pressure.)

I felt like a private club without a name. The type of place you knew, you knew. Although you do not know exactly what will happen next.

Then the black skin came.

Skin pants and leather motorcycle jackets. Leather shirts and leather relationships. Skin gloves and designed leather car coats, all of which are men and women. There was a lot of skin, but not a leather or thong belt on the horizon, which might look like a random point (why should there be a leather belt?). But if you want to know the difference between Tom Ford from Mr. Ford and Mr. Akrman Tom Ford, this type of exaggeration: Mr. Ford loved the Gock strap. The implicit suggestion of the skin on the skin, which was the basis of the brand for Mr. Ford there, but in a more secret way.

And so he continued, both – Mr. Akraman proved that he understood the vocabulary of the brand, and it seems that every new designer in an existing house must do these days – and darkening. Nothing was very narrow or arrogant. This does not mean that it was informal. Many models, like Mr. Ford himself, were wearing black shades.

The white pants made of wool that had a feeling of sweating were low under identical white wool jacket, and the collars are fixed, installed on the jacket on the side. Long silk skirts, cut from the hip, slipped only one to be rescued from the entire slide through the thinnest belts, as well as some loose black tie pants. There were many claims, especially for men, and some seem to be directly inspired by Mr. Ford himself, who went through a double -chest period in the first years of his brand. In fact, it seemed that many brand’s brand signals seemed to be an early decline in Ford, unlike Trashy Ford in the late stage. Although Mr. Ford has never worn his pants.

It was amazing. Some time has passed since we saw appropriate allowances-and men in relationships-at a runway, but they have been distorted less in the last century and more dreamer when he was suddenly wearing the color: a woman’s pants suit in dusty lilac worn with a green boss blouse, for example, left a loose tie or a yellow chocolate yellow suit; A pair of bright micro -pants of a man associated with a black coat, or even a Green Philadon suit, wears an ivory shirt and a tie.

Sometimes, a white flower is placed in the breast pocket or installed on folding fold. Sometimes, it was a thin scarf to connect the cross around the neck. Near the end, the tweed had a little sparkle. Dandi’s poet was very, especially a series of spots of the spot, which was slightly retracted.

In a previous interview, Mr. Ackermann said he wanted to look rich clothes, and they did. He said he wanted them to get attention, but without screaming, most of them did that. If they lack some emotional longing that always looks woven in the former work of Mr. Akraman under his name, if they seemed to have a more cold feeling, and more literally than their own attractiveness, that was in line with Mr. Ford’s heritage. The final appearance, a pair of dresses and a jacket in a silver knit made to imitate the crocodile, and the scales that are raised a little, combined both.

With development. Perhaps negroni or mint Julib next time.

Meanwhile, at the Opera House …

The difficult budget of the brand re -renovation while was under the founder’s eye, even if the founder was no longer the theory as a participant in the work, was also the challenge of Julian Klausner in Dries Van Noten. Mr. Klausner had a feature – or a defect – to spend six years working with Mr. Van Nutin (who was in the audience), so he is taught completely in the brand symbols. Perhaps a very lesson.

The braid integrating the tie silk, Badwan and wool wearing men revealed its first group, which was held on the outskirts of the decorative Opéra Garnier. There were large leather belts and east -like pants. Bags, shoes and even a coat covered with flaws from the silk margin. Mixed with paillettes. Also some wonderful evening look. In this, Mr. Klausner got a mixture of materials and references that was the Van Noten brand, but led to the compensation of the groups (and the fulfillment, the assembly and sometimes wandering).

The final result was absent from the restraint, which was the source of tension between extreme bets and extreme ease that often made the clothes of Mr. Van Nutin transcendent – and for his fans. Now that Mr. Klausner got all this decoration of his system, he may start getting rid of the excess to find out what may appear. This will be a real second really.